Even experienced lash lift enthusiasts occasionally encounter problems with their treatments. Whether you're troubleshooting a disappointing result or preparing for your first attempt, understanding common mistakes helps you achieve consistently beautiful outcomes. This guide covers the most frequent errors and provides practical solutions for each.
Mistake 1: Choosing the Wrong Shield Size
Shield selection is perhaps the most crucial decision in the entire lash lift process, yet it's where many beginners go wrong. The shield determines the intensity and shape of your curl, and choosing incorrectly leads to disappointing results.
The Problem
A shield that's too small for your lash length creates an overly tight, crimped curl that can look unnatural or even cause lashes to fold over on themselves. A shield that's too large results in a subtle lift that may barely be noticeable.
The Solution
Match your shield to your lash length, not your desired curl intensity. Your lashes should extend just beyond the top of the shield when laid flat. If in doubt, start with a medium or larger shield for your first treatment. You can always go smaller next time for more drama, but you can't undo an over-curled result.
Shield Size Guide
Small shields: Best for short lashes (under 8mm) wanting dramatic curl. Medium shields: Ideal for average lashes (8-11mm) seeking noticeable lift. Large shields: Perfect for long lashes (12mm+) or those wanting subtle, natural enhancement.
Mistake 2: Improper Lash Placement on the Shield
How your lashes are positioned on the shield directly affects the final result. Rushed or careless placement leads to uneven, crossed, or kinked lashes.
Common Placement Errors
- Crossed lashes: Lashes overlapping each other create an untidy, clumped appearance
- Gaps between lashes: Missing lashes or uneven spacing results in an inconsistent curl
- Lashes not reaching the shield base: Results in curl starting mid-lash rather than at the root
- Lashes extending too far over the shield: Can cause the tips to fold or crimp
The Solution
Take your time with this step. Use a Y-brush or micro applicator to separate and position each lash individually. Lashes should be parallel, evenly spaced, and extending straight up the shield. Work in sections and check your work frequently. Good lighting and a magnifying mirror are essential.
Mistake 3: Incorrect Processing Times
Processing times are not one-size-fits-all, and following generic instructions without considering your individual lash type is a recipe for problems.
The Problem with Over-Processing
Leaving solutions on too long breaks down too many bonds, resulting in frizzy, damaged, or overly curled lashes that can look crimped or singed. In severe cases, lashes may become so weakened they break off.
The Problem with Under-Processing
Insufficient processing time means bonds aren't adequately broken, resulting in a lift that barely takes or drops within days.
The Solution
Start with shorter times and increase gradually based on results. Fine, light lashes process faster than thick, coarse ones. Always use a timer - never estimate. Keep detailed notes on what works for your lashes so you can replicate success.
Critical Timing Rule
If you're unsure, always err on the side of under-processing. You can repeat the treatment in a few weeks with longer times, but you cannot undo damage from over-processing.
Mistake 4: Inadequate Lash Preparation
Skipping or rushing the cleansing step is tempting when you're eager to see results, but residue on your lashes creates a barrier that prevents solutions from working properly.
What Gets in the Way
- Mascara residue (even from days before)
- Natural oils from skin and lashes
- Makeup remover residue
- Moisturisers or serums applied near the eye area
- Environmental debris and dust
The Solution
Use an oil-free lash cleanser or primer specifically designed for lash treatments. Cleanse thoroughly, then use a lint-free applicator to ensure lashes are completely clean and dry. Some professionals recommend a second cleanse with a lash primer to ensure optimal solution penetration.
Mistake 5: Solution Application Errors
How you apply the lifting and setting solutions matters as much as how long you leave them on.
Common Application Mistakes
- Applying to roots or tips: Solutions should cover the middle section of lashes on the shield, avoiding roots (which touch the eyelid) and tips (which can become over-processed)
- Using too much product: Excess solution can seep onto skin or into eyes, causing irritation
- Uneven application: Results in inconsistent processing across the lash line
- Not covering adequately: Missed spots won't lift properly
The Solution
Apply a thin, even layer to the middle 2/3 of the lashes on the shield. Use a micro brush or applicator for precision. Avoid the skin entirely. Less is more - you can always add a bit more if needed, but excess product causes problems.
Mistake 6: Neglecting the Setting Solution
After the drama of the lifting solution, some people rush through or under-time the setting solution. This is a critical error that undermines everything you've done.
Why Setting Matters
The setting solution reforms the broken bonds in their new shape. Insufficient setting means bonds don't fully lock, and your curl will drop prematurely - sometimes within just a few days.
The Solution
Give the setting solution its full processing time. This step is just as important as the lifting step. Don't rush it because you're eager to see results. The setting time is typically similar to or slightly shorter than the lifting time.
A properly set lash lift should last 6-8 weeks. If your results consistently fade within 2-3 weeks, inadequate setting is likely the culprit.
Mistake 7: Poor Aftercare in the First 24 Hours
Your treatment doesn't end when you remove the shield. What you do in the following 24 hours can make or break your results.
Aftercare Violations
- Getting lashes wet before 24 hours
- Applying mascara immediately
- Using oil-based products near eyes
- Rubbing or touching eyes
- Exposing lashes to steam or humidity
The Solution
Plan your lash lift for a time when you can avoid these activities. If you need to wash your face, carefully avoid the eye area. Skip the gym, pool, and sauna. Be mindful of steam from cooking. These 24 hours of care are worth weeks of beautiful results.
Mistake 8: Attempting to Fix Problems Mid-Treatment
When something goes wrong during a lash lift, panic can lead to poor decisions that make things worse.
The Problem
Trying to re-do steps, reapply solutions, or "fix" lashes while solutions are still processing can result in uneven processing, skin irritation, or damaged lashes.
The Solution
If something goes significantly wrong, the safest option is to remove all products, let your lashes rest, and try again in 4-6 weeks. Minor issues can often be addressed in your next treatment with better technique. Document what went wrong so you can avoid the same mistake next time.
Learning from Mistakes
Every mistake is an opportunity to improve. Keep notes on each treatment including processing times, shield sizes, and results. Over time, you'll develop a personalized approach that works perfectly for your unique lashes.